What Is an Izakaya?

An izakaya (居酒屋) is often translated as a Japanese pub, but that doesn't quite capture it. It's somewhere between a pub, a tapas bar, and a neighbourhood restaurant — a place to drink, eat small shared plates, and linger for hours. The atmosphere is typically informal and lively, with wooden counters, low lighting, paper lanterns, and the sound of laughter and clinking glasses spilling out onto the street.

Izakayas are a cornerstone of Japanese social life. After-work dinners, birthday celebrations, and casual catch-ups all happen here. Knowing how they work makes the experience far more enjoyable — especially if you're visiting Japan for the first time.

How Does an Izakaya Work?

The Otooshi (お通し)

When you sit down, you'll almost always receive a small snack you didn't order — this is the otooshi, a table cover charge included in your bill. Don't be alarmed. It's standard practice, not a mistake, and the snack is usually something simple and tasty like edamame, a pickled vegetable, or a small salad.

Ordering

Izakaya menus are designed for sharing. You order multiple small dishes across the evening rather than a single main. Start with drinks, then call dishes gradually as the night progresses. The culture is relaxed — there's no rush.

Nomi-hodai (飲み放題)

Many izakayas offer nomi-hodai — unlimited drinks for a set price over a fixed time period (typically 2 hours). This usually includes beer, sake, shochu, cocktails, and soft drinks. It's excellent value and very popular with groups.

What to Order: Izakaya Essentials

  • Edamame — salted boiled soybeans, the classic starter
  • Karaage — Japanese fried chicken, crispy outside and juicy inside, served with lemon and kewpie mayo
  • Yakitori — skewered, grilled chicken in various cuts (thigh, skin, cartilage) with tare glaze or salt
  • Tamagoyaki — rolled sweet egg omelette, often served as a drinking snack
  • Tofu dengaku — grilled tofu with sweet miso glaze
  • Agedashi tofu — lightly fried tofu in a delicate dashi broth
  • Sashimi moriawase — a mixed platter of fresh sashimi
  • Gyoza — pan-fried dumplings, always a crowd favourite

What to Drink

The most popular izakaya drinks include:

  • Nama biiru — draft beer, the usual starting choice
  • Chu-hai — canned or draft shochu mixed with soda water and fruit flavour; light and refreshing
  • Sake — hot (atsukan) in winter, cold (reishu) in summer
  • Highball (Whisky soda) — hugely popular across Japan, especially Suntory Toki or Kakubin
  • Shochu on the rocks — Japan's native spirit, distilled from sweet potato, barley, or rice

Izakaya Etiquette Tips

  1. Wait to be seated — staff will guide you to a table. Don't wander in and sit anywhere.
  2. Say "kanpai!" when toasting — always wait until everyone has their drink before taking the first sip.
  3. Oshibori first — use the small wet towel provided to clean your hands before eating.
  4. Don't tip — tipping is not part of Japanese restaurant culture.
  5. Call staff with a hand raise or a polite "sumimasen" — not by snapping fingers or waving aggressively.
  6. Linger — izakayas aren't rushed. Stay, order more, enjoy the night.

Chain Izakayas vs. Local Independents

Large chains like Torikizoku, Shirokiya, and Watami are reliable, affordable, and usually have English menus — great for newcomers. But for the real experience, seek out a small, independent izakaya down a side street, where the chef is also the owner, the menu changes with the season, and regulars greet each other by name. These places are the heart of Japanese neighbourhood life.